DISCLAIMER
There are no warranties, whether expressed or implied, that this guide is accurate or that the information contained in it is reliable. Your use of this guide indicates your assumption of the risk that it may contain errors and is an acknowledgment of your own sole responsibility for your climbing safety in what is potentially a life threatening sport.
More About the Guide
There are just about 260 rock outcrops listed in this guide, although 40% really aren’t worth talking about. I chose to include the 40% so you can decide for yourself if they are worth climbing. Perhaps the vegetation just needs to be cleaned off to uncover something grand. The majority of these crags are bouldering areas.
Click on the balloons in Google Maps to see information and pictures of each crag. All crags will have the height, the direction the rock faces, a clean rating, and the approximate number of routes. The clean rating is on a scale 1 to 5 where Ilchester is a 5 and Friction wall is a 2. Please keep in mind this is a small scale and very subjective. The last rating, approximate number of routes, is based on either having climbed at the crag or a visual inspection of the crag. This rating should give you an idea of how much a crag has to offer. I often get asked if I have climbed on all of the crags listed here and the answer is no, as some are just plain rotten rock or covered in vines.
Top Areas
Top Topropping areas
Ilchester 38'..................intermediate to Pro ............. S. Hilltop rd off Frederick Rd
Alberton 50'..................beginner to intermediate .... Dogwood rd @ Holfield rd
Woodstock 39'..............intermediate to advanced .... Woodstock rd @ Old court rd
Friction Wall 68'...........intermediate to Pro .............. College Ave Ellicott City
Bloede Dam Crag 34'.....beginner to intermediate .... Ilchester rd Ellicott City
Cascade Falls 31' ...........intermediate to advanced ... Landing Rd Elkridge
Marriottsville Gold 29'..beginner to intermediate .....Marriottsville rd2
Morgan Run 34'.............intermediate to advanced ... Klees Mill Rd Westminster
Top Bouldering
Alberton - Frameshift, 40, The Prow... Dogwood rd at Holfield rd
Morgan Run entire area ......... Klees Mill Rd Westminster
Woodstock Rock, Way Back....Woodstock rd at Old court rd
Kelbel’s Karg ...........................Liberty Reservoir
Ivy Mill.....................................Reisterstown Md Ivy Mill rd
Grimhold Boulder ...................Sykesville Buttercup rd.
Gorsuch Switch .......................Sykesville Gorsuch Switch Rd
The Nest, Jam Boulder............Sykesville River Rd
Trolly Line................................Ollea and Old Frederick rd
Route 70 Boulders...................Old Frederick rd and the Railroad
Passage.....................................Granite MD Old Court Rd
Bolting
Many of the crags listed with in this blog have established routes that are not documented. This being the case, please ask before bolting to make sure a route doesn't already exists. There are several Crags in the area that are desired by many to stay bolt free in order to protect the established routes. The list is, Ilchester, Woodstock, Cascade Falls, Bloede Dam Crag, Alberton, Kelbel’s Karg, Marriottsville Gold-Silver-Bronze, River Rd Half Dome, and The Nest.
Crag Locations Download
The link below has the rock locations for use in Google Earth, without the pictures and information contained within the balloons.
This downloadable file is a kmz format and was last updated on 4-29-2015.
In addition you can turn on the Park Boundaries in Google Earth by selecting “Parks/Recreation Areas”, a green pine tree, found in the “More” folder.
MrPatapsco Locations
Other Climbing Links
Mid-Atlantic Climbers (MAC) is an organization dedicated to ensuring responsible climbing and access in Maryland and Virginia. MAC is involved with Ilchester Rock and the issues at hand including erosion, Graffiti, and trash.
Indy-Adventures covers most of Maryland's climbing areas and contains more detailed information on some of the local areas listed here.
Bouldering and climbing in Central Maryland by Robin Close
with and emphasis on North West Branch.
Pebble Wrestling A Local group documenting there Bouldering trips.
I grew up on a small farm on the West side of Baltimore and started climbing in the spring of 1988 through CCBC. I began lead climbing the fall of 1988 on nuts and hexes as camming units were not well known about. I’m proud to say that I lead my first two 5.10’s, Castor and Pollux at Seneca, prior to obtaining my first camming unit. I started guiding for Mike Carroll’s CCBC climbing class trips to Seneca in 1989 and it was an honor to guide for him for 17 years. In 1991, I took 2 courses with NC Outward Bound, the Wilderness First Responders and a 10-day Rope Rescue course. After completing these courses, I taught troubled youth to climb at Seneca for 4 summers. The last summer I taught the class, I lived at Seneca and my work-week was only 3 days long! With all this extra time to climb, I began leading 5.11 Seneca trad routes. I have enjoyed the challenge of climbing several routes approx. 1000’ tall, two of which I roped soloed - Moby Grape on Cannon NH, and Left side cracks on Pingora in the Cirque of the towers WY. I have established a route at Seneca “Before the Fall” 5.10b PG with Dan Caston and Maryland’s first grade IV route “Spectacular Spectacle” A3+ 5.8 IV at Maryland Heights with Dominic Albanese.
Due to Google’s deprecation of the Earth API I was forced to move the map from Google Earth to Google Maps. Much thanks to Dominic Albanese for all the programming work. I’m very excited to now offer a “Full screen” button at the top right corner of the map! Also that the site is available on mobile devices when "view as web version" is selected.
7 comments:
I'm sorry but I don't see the link! Am i missing something?
I'm trying to find climbing spots in Baltimore - thanks for any help you can offer
Hi Andy,
you are at the correct link, the maps should be near the top of this blog page. When you first arrive at this page the map is zoomed out on Central Maryland. in the map you will see some yellow and red circles with numbers in them, the map is interactive, clicking on the circle will zoom in and expand that specific area and will then show some flags with crag names in them. clicking on the flags will open a window showing information about that crag. also note the "Fullscreen" button at the top right of the map is very useful. If you don't see the map try a different browse, like Chrome,Firefox, or internet explorer. if your connection is slow the map information, with the circles and flags might be slow to show up. If the hosting server goes down no information will show up in the map, however I've not notices that it has gone down this month. Hope that helps.
Mr Patapsco.
Hi! I have lived on Oakland Road my entire life. As a child I would look for boulders in the area. Now that I am older I have put up some decent problems in the area. I saw you had taken some pictures of boulders. If you are interested in knowing the locations of a few other boulders and the climbs on them let me know. One of the best boulders is actually somewhat close the Wards Chapel.
Hi Jake,
Sure I would like to see some more boulders, and add them to the map for the benefit of the climbing community. You can contact me at jkelbel@dirdim.com. I've covered most of the north end of the lake and just haven't gotten out to cover the section between 26 and Wards Chapel.
Honesty i don't see the link either
The interactive map is embedded in this web page, there is no other link, the map is near the top of the page under the heading "Mr Patapsco's Google Map". If you don't see the map try using a different browser. What browser are you using? I know that Chrome, Internet Explorer, Firefox browsers are working and its also working on my 4Glte android tablet running Chrome although it's a bit slow and can take 30 seconds or more for the balloons/labels to appear. In the interactive map click on the numbered circles to zoom into an area once a reasonable zoom level is reached you will see balloons/labels of crag names and clicking on these balloons will open a popup window with information on the crags. Hope that helps.
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