Rock Climbing in the Patapsco State Park and Baltimore MD

Friction Wall Access Issues

2011-10-12T09:15:00.001-04:00

Access issues are arising with walking along the train tracks to Friction Wall. There have been two reports now, one where two climbers were ticketed for trespassing on CSX property. With little other access to Friction Wall everyone needs to stay out of sight of all trains, workers, and CSX cops. CSX workers are strictly forbidden to walk down the center of the tracks. So if you are going to trespass at least walk on the side as far away from the tracks as you can. I heard once long ago CSX owns 40ft two either side of the tracks but don’t hold me to this. I also heard just crossing the tracks is not allowed either. So please try to preserve our access by staying out of sight of all trains, also keep me informed of new issue so as a climbing community we can try to head off potential access issues.

Also keep this in mind for Woodstock Rock and the other rocks along the tracks.
Thanks

3D Model of Ilchester

2011-09-15T10:03:00.000-04:00

Above in my Google Earth plug in Check out the 3D Model of Ilchester I created. To see it zoom in on Ilchester rock, be sure to tilt the view using the middle mouse button.

Friction Wall Bolts have been replaced on the climb “4 Bolts”

2011-09-15T09:41:00.000-04:00

The Job is done! The 2” low grade bolts were replaced on the climb "4 Bolts" with new 3” and 3-1/2” Stainless steel 5 piece bolts with new hangers costing over $50, enjoy them.

In 20 to 30 years I probably will have retired from climbing so I ask the new generation of climbers to hold onto this installation date and information so you can replace the bolts in due time. All the bolts holes were drilled deep enough to allow the nut to be pushed further back into the hole allowing for new 3” long bolts to be installed in the same holes.

Posted September 1,2011
After talking with a few locals we agreed to replace the rusty bolts on the climb “4 Bolts” at Friction wall. This climb is located perhaps 300 feet right of the main slab and sport wall.

We spent considerable time removing the bolts successfully and will be able to reuse the old holes. Surprisingly the bolts we removed were only 2 inches long. In the coming weeks we hope to finish the task with new stainless steal 3/8 by 3” long and new hangers. I’ll post again when it’s finished.

Version 4

2011-03-21T08:26:00.003-04:00

Update – Spring 2011

Well I’m still digging up new or forgotten rocks, as usual. I have been making an effort to add small and large boulders, since it seems like the outdoor bouldering community is growing in our area. The added information below is arranged from South to North.

Gilford Quarry Savage MD (Red Empty Balloon)
Located near 95 and 32 a bit outside my area but thought it worth the mention.

River Rd Boulders A-C (Blue Diamond Balloons)
Located off River Rd in Baltimore County near Ilchester and just west of Thistle Rd. Check out the blue balloons, named River Rd Boulder A-C

Friction Wall History, (Yellow Circle Balloon)
Located South East of Historical Ellicott City added the history of the quarry and an 1898 New pictures and historical picture and info in the bottom of Friction Wall Balloon.

Gaither Quarry (Red Empty Balloon)
Private Property, behind the gas station on Fredrick rd just outside historical Ellicott City and across the river from The Friction Wall.

South 70 East Side (Red Empty Balloon)
Located just South of Rt 70 on the Baltimore county side of the river.

Rt 70 East Boulder (Blue, Diamond Balloon)
Located just north of Rt 70 on the East side of the Patapsco.

North West Daniels Boulders 1 & 2 (Blue, Diamond Balloons)
Located on the North side of the Patapsco and a half mile West of Daniels which is West of Alberton.

East Woodstock Grand Boulder (Green Diamond Balloon)
Located just East of Woodstock rock

East Woodstock Bantam Boulder (Green Diamond Balloon)
Located just East of Woodstock rock and just west of the parkinglot.

West Woodstock Boulder (Green Diamond Balloon)
Located West of Woodstock Rock, Woodstock Maryland.

West Sykesville Boulder, (Red Diamond Balloon)
Located just west of 32 and on the South side of Patapsco River is a small boulder.

Rt 97 boulders A-C (Red Diamond Ballons)
Located on the East side of Rt 97 and the South side of the Patapsco River.
All 3 are on private property.

First Post

2009-07-23T09:26:00.002-04:00

I will enjoy your comments and hearing about your climbing adventures on the crags listed in this blog.