Update – Spring 2011
Well I’m still digging up new or forgotten rocks, as usual. I have been making an effort to add small and large boulders, since it seems like the outdoor bouldering community is growing in our area. The added information below is arranged from South to North.
Gilford Quarry Savage MD (Red Empty Balloon)
Located near 95 and 32 a bit outside my area but thought it worth the mention.
River Rd Boulders A-C (Blue Diamond Balloons)
Located off River Rd in Baltimore County near Ilchester and just west of Thistle Rd. Check out the blue balloons, named River Rd Boulder A-C
Friction Wall History, (Yellow Circle Balloon)
Located South East of Historical Ellicott City added the history of the quarry and an 1898 New pictures and historical picture and info in the bottom of Friction Wall Balloon.
Gaither Quarry (Red Empty Balloon)
Private Property, behind the gas station on Fredrick rd just outside historical Ellicott City and across the river from The Friction Wall.
South 70 East Side (Red Empty Balloon)
Located just South of Rt 70 on the Baltimore county side of the river.
Rt 70 East Boulder (Blue, Diamond Balloon)
Located just north of Rt 70 on the East side of the Patapsco.
North West Daniels Boulders 1 & 2 (Blue, Diamond Balloons)
Located on the North side of the Patapsco and a half mile West of Daniels which is West of Alberton.
East Woodstock Grand Boulder (Green Diamond Balloon)
Located just East of Woodstock rock
East Woodstock Bantam Boulder (Green Diamond Balloon)
Located just East of Woodstock rock and just west of the parkinglot.
West Woodstock Boulder (Green Diamond Balloon)
Located West of Woodstock Rock, Woodstock Maryland.
West Sykesville Boulder, (Red Diamond Balloon)
Located just west of 32 and on the South side of Patapsco River is a small boulder.
Rt 97 boulders A-C (Red Diamond Ballons)
Located on the East side of Rt 97 and the South side of the Patapsco River.
All 3 are on private property.
DISCLAIMER
There are no warranties, whether expressed or implied, that this guide is accurate or that the information contained in it is reliable. Your use of this guide indicates your assumption of the risk that it may contain errors and is an acknowledgment of your own sole responsibility for your climbing safety in what is potentially a life threatening sport.
Google Earth
Note: Google Earth Plug-in is not the same as the Google Earth download. After installing the Plug-in you will need to close and reopen this page.
More About the Guide
There are just over 100 rock outcrops listed in this guide, although 40% really aren’t worth talking about. I chose to include the 40% so you can decide for yourself if they are worth climbing. Perhaps the vegetation just needs to be cleaned off to uncover something grand. There are lots of bouldering spots listed as well.
Click on the balloons in Google Earth to see information and pictures of each crag. All crags will have the height, the direction the rock faces, a clean rating, and the approximate number of routes. The clean rating is on a scale 1 to 5 where Ilchester is a 5 and Friction wall is a 2. Please keep in mind this is a small scale and very subjective. The last rating, approximate number of routes, is based on either having climbed at the crag or a visual inspection of the crag. This rating should give you an idea of how much a crag has to offer. Please note that the green park boundary lines seen here in Google Earth were hand-drawn and are not exact. I often get asked if I have climbed on all of the crags listed here and the answer is no, as some are just plain rotten rock or covered in vines.
Click on the balloons in Google Earth to see information and pictures of each crag. All crags will have the height, the direction the rock faces, a clean rating, and the approximate number of routes. The clean rating is on a scale 1 to 5 where Ilchester is a 5 and Friction wall is a 2. Please keep in mind this is a small scale and very subjective. The last rating, approximate number of routes, is based on either having climbed at the crag or a visual inspection of the crag. This rating should give you an idea of how much a crag has to offer. Please note that the green park boundary lines seen here in Google Earth were hand-drawn and are not exact. I often get asked if I have climbed on all of the crags listed here and the answer is no, as some are just plain rotten rock or covered in vines.
Naming of the Crags
The majority of the crags were named by their location to the nearest road. I did take some liberty and gave unique names to some crags even though I may not have been the first person to discover the crag. If you feel you have the right to name a place, I’ll be happy to consider changing the name.
Bolting
Many of the crags listed with in this blog have established routes that are not documented. This being the case, please ask before bolting to make sure a route doesn't already exists. There are several Crags in the area that are desired by many to stay bolt free in order to protect the established routes. The list is, Ilchester, Woodstock, Cascade Falls, Bloede Dam Crag, Alberton, Kelbel’s Karg, Marriottsville Gold-Silver-Bronze, River Rd Half Dome, and The Nest.
Google Earth Down load
The link below has the rock locations for use in Google Earth, however this file dose not include the pictures and information found within this site.
In Google Earth I recommend turning on the Park Boundaries by selecting “Parks/Recreation Areas”, a green pine tree, found in the “More” folder.
MrPatapsco Locations
In Google Earth I recommend turning on the Park Boundaries by selecting “Parks/Recreation Areas”, a green pine tree, found in the “More” folder.
MrPatapsco Locations
Other Climbing Links
http://midatlanticclimbers.org/
Mid-Atlantic Climbers (MAC) is an organization dedicated to ensuring responsible climbing and access in Maryland and Virginia. MAC is involved with Ilchester Rock and the issues at hand including erosion, Graffiti, and trash.
http://indy-adventures.net/climbing/guide.html
Indy's sight covers most of Maryland's climbing areas and contains more detailed information on some of the local areas listed here.
http://robinclose.blogspot.com/
Bouldering and climbing in Central Maryland by Robin Close
with and emphasis on North West Branch.
http://pebblewrestling.wordpress.com/
A Local group documenting there Bouldering trips.
http://harpersferryclimbing.blogspot.com/
http://www.harpersferryclimbing.com/
Climbing locations and info for Harper's ferry.
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/maryland/patapsco_state_park/106499348
The Premier Resource for the Climbing and Mountaineering Community.
Direct link to Patapsco State Park
http://www.bigwalls.com/forum2/index.php?PHPSESSID=5a0be77532dfa303efb6df2ef40ee616&topic=269.0
John Middendorf's Big Walls Website, has a report of what is belived to be Maryland's first grade IV route "Spectacular Spectacle 5.8 A3 IV"
FA: John Kelbel & Dominic Albanese 10/16/2005
http://shopdnr.com/patapscovalleystateparkcompleteguide.aspx
Patapsco Valley State Park Complete Trail Map 170 miles of trails $6.00
Interactive Spherical Image
Alex Abler's Climbing Gym
Mid-Atlantic Climbers (MAC) is an organization dedicated to ensuring responsible climbing and access in Maryland and Virginia. MAC is involved with Ilchester Rock and the issues at hand including erosion, Graffiti, and trash.
http://indy-adventures.net/climbing/guide.html
Indy's sight covers most of Maryland's climbing areas and contains more detailed information on some of the local areas listed here.
http://robinclose.blogspot.com/
Bouldering and climbing in Central Maryland by Robin Close
with and emphasis on North West Branch.
http://pebblewrestling.wordpress.com/
A Local group documenting there Bouldering trips.
http://harpersferryclimbing.blogspot.com/
http://www.harpersferryclimbing.com/
Climbing locations and info for Harper's ferry.
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/maryland/patapsco_state_park/106499348
The Premier Resource for the Climbing and Mountaineering Community.
Direct link to Patapsco State Park
http://www.bigwalls.com/forum2/index.php?PHPSESSID=5a0be77532dfa303efb6df2ef40ee616&topic=269.0
John Middendorf's Big Walls Website, has a report of what is belived to be Maryland's first grade IV route "Spectacular Spectacle 5.8 A3 IV"
FA: John Kelbel & Dominic Albanese 10/16/2005
http://shopdnr.com/patapscovalleystateparkcompleteguide.aspx
Patapsco Valley State Park Complete Trail Map 170 miles of trails $6.00
Interactive Spherical Image
Alex Abler's Climbing Gym
John Kelbel
I grew up on a small farm on the West side of Baltimore and started climbing in the spring of 1988 through CCBC. I began lead climbing the fall of 1988 on nuts and hexes as camming units were not well known about. I’m proud to say that I lead my first two 5.10’s, Castor and Pollux at Seneca, prior to obtaining my first camming unit. I started guiding for Mike Carroll’s CCBC climbing class trips to Seneca in 1989 and it was an honor to guide for him for 17 years. In 1991, I took 2 courses with NC Outward Bound, the Wilderness First Responders and a 10-day Rope Rescue course. After completing these courses, I taught troubled youth to climb at Seneca for 4 summers. The last summer I taught the class, I lived at Seneca and my work-week was only 3 days long! With all this extra time to climb, I began leading 5.11 Seneca trad routes. I have enjoyed the challenge of climbing several routes approx. 1000’ tall, two of which I roped soloed - Moby Grape on Cannon NH, and Left side cracks on Pingora in the Cirque of the towers WY. I have established a route at Seneca “Before the Fall” 5.10b PG with Dan Caston and Maryland’s first grade IV route “Spectacular Spectacle” A3+ 5.8 IV at Maryland Heights with Dominic Albanese.
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1 comments:
Check out the stone bridge at W 33rd and Remington Ave in Baltimore. It's very dirty, but there are a couple of interesting spots where you can top rope, and a long traverse.
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